Monday, March 26, 2007



More digger pictures for Hallam Saunders, enjoy!


Who says that Indonesia has a transport crisis?
At the top of Gunung Sesean. We met these kids enroute who were camping


Ojek (motorbikes) , the transport of choice


Cruising the canals of Benjarmasin


A health and safety nightmare. Vicki's work colleagues would have kittens
Playing with Naomi and Oasis in the Lewoleba Homestay


University friends will understand the significance of this piccie


Matt in the hotspring surrounded by rice paddies in Moni, Flores


Just about to get on the good ship Awu from Maumere, Flores


Typical kaki lima (literal translation '5 legs') street vender

Cave graves in the Tana Toraja, Sulawesi. The boat shaped houses are also very typical of the region.


Rice paddy terracing, Tana Toraja. Boulders were spat out by the mighty volcanoes in some distant time.


More crossing of rivers by uncertain bridges, trekking between Pangala and Limbong in the Tana Toraja.

The town of Pare Pare, Sulawesi, Indonesia. One of the average, not especially interesting towns that we have come to enjoy visiting. Normal Indonesian life goes on here, which is enough for us to enjoy. Plus we had to hang around for several days for a boat to depart. The yellow minibuses really do race around town.



The quite wonderful view from our guesthouse in Batutomonga in the Tana Toraja, Sulawesi, Indonesia.

Volcano territory from Lewoleba on Lembata in East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia. It was kind of the cloud to atmospherically circle around just as we had the camera handy. Also, this was the first and only time we saw the top in four days here.



Vicki facing the not inconsiderable challenge of road crossing in Makassar, Sulawesi, Indonesia.

A spot of ping pong whilst waiting for a ferry from Kupang in West Timor to Lewoleba on Lembata, all Indonesia. For the record, the pom won.

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

An update from our travels, which may or may not be supplemented by pictures depending on the highly variable internet connections available around here.

Here is presently Pare Pare on the Indonesian Island of Sulawesi. We managed to catch the Pelni ship Awu from Maumere on Flores to Makassar on Sulawesi without too much difficulty. We found the ferry to be fairly ship shape, traveling as we were in flashpacker first class, including a cabin to ourselves with hot running water and everything. Hence we were able to take our first proper shower since leaving Australia and even got a decent night’s sleep on the 26 hour crossing. Makassar was a bustling city, full of life and all the Asian craziness that somehow manages to exist in one place. The city is rich in history as one of the foremost ports in the region and spice mongering Europeans have been stopping by for years. Fort Rotterdam, actually built by a local prince but handed over to the Dutch, still stands proudly on the waterfront and we found Saturday night on the Esplanade to be a lively affair (once we found a bar, that is). The city is famous for the bugis schooners, a type of wooden boat with a huge soaring prow and billowing sails. They still ply their way around the region, apparently, though the harbour where they stand in port is sadly a litter strewn dump with only kids splashing in the disgustingly filthy water to cause amusement (and disease, no doubt). Makassar also hosts an orchid house with no orchids, only a collection of shells gathered in the early 1970’s. Interestingly enough.

We then bussed up to the Tana Toraja, a region of central Sulawesi famed for its traditional villages, boat shaped houses and funerals. It is a mountainous, volcanic area with deep valleys and gushing rivers and we spent a few days trekking around the little villages that spread out all over the hillsides. It is something of a morbid place in many ways, so concerned are the local folk by death. They have enormous funeral ceremonies necessitating the slaughter of an appropriate number of buffalo and the building of as many houses as possible. Impressively you might think, most people have two funerals, one immediately after their death and another once enough dosh has been raised to give them a proper send off. They might keep the body for two or three years whilst funds are collected. This gives rise to a funeral season around September and October, though various funerals take place all the time. This fad has become pretty touristy, though we found there were plenty of nice simple villages to visit and places to see simply by wandering off into the hills. Along the way we were able to see many cave graves that scatter the cliff faces, with bones and skulls peeking out from various alcoves and grottos. Antique hunters used to come plundering the coffins of the rich, so the Torajans started hiding their dead in remote rocky graves and the tradition stuck. We also managed to climb Gunung Sesean, a nearby 2000m volcano and get thoroughly soaked by the consistently torrential afternoon rains. It was all a lot of fun.

We now head to Balikpapan on Kalimantan, Indonesian Borneo, via another gruelingly long all day and night ferry.

We have also just celebrated our six month traveling anniversary. It has been a whirlwind of a fantastic time thus far. We have been fortunate to avoid any particular disasters to date, suffering neither serious illness, injury, loss or theft. We have also been fortunate to do and see a lot of fab stuff. Particular highlights would include the highlands of Fiji, completing the Dusky Track in New Zealand, dust storms of Broken Hill and the madness of East Timor, especially sunrise from Mount Ramelau. We have an awful lot to look forward to yet of course, with the rest of South East Asia, China and Russia to conquer. We hope that our good fortune continues to hold.

Now we need to go and find a pedalo to fall off. Cheers.

Saturday, March 03, 2007


On the main street in Dili, East Timor. We liked the Christmas tree still on display. Behind is one of the many UNHCR refugee camps.


Sat outside our guesthouse in Dili. Life is dominated by the hulking UN 4x4's.


This building is actually fully functioning school, Dili.


Meeting the locals near Maubisse, East Timor.


The main road through Maubisse, 3 hours bus journey south of Dili. We had just chartered a knackered old Nissan Cabstar to carry us out of here.